Continuing east towards Cotopaxi, our next destination, we arrived late in the evening at a hostel just north of Cotopaxi, Ecuador's most famous snow capped perfect coned extinct volcano. Papagayo hosteria is an old Spanish colonial farmhouse that is very warm and inviting. The young Israeli guys who own it were very friendly and made us feel right at home. After arriving with the plan to spend only one quick night there we left 3 nights later. They definitely have the best showers we have had in South America.

     With local Israeli advice we headed out for the Cotopaxi National Park where we found an awesome camp spot, totally secluded next to a small lagoon with the mighty Cotopaxi as the back drop and many wild horses running free. We spent the afternoon doing a quick 4 hour hike into the canyons at the base of the volcano and a chilly night camped in the low cloud. The following morning we drove up to the Refugio car park at 4500m and climbed the final 300m to the refugio for a splendid view of the whole park and the glacier covered ice cap of Cotopaxi. We also made a short journey to the base of the glacier.

     A quick overnight back at Papagayo Hosteria we continued South on the Pan Americana motorway towards Quilatoa. An aqua green lake set in the crater of a volcano high in the Ecuadorian Andes. Arriving mid afternoon in bad weather we did not have the best view but were extremely pleased to unexpectedly meet up with Franco and Nina from Banos who were out for a few days on holiday with two overland drivers, an Aussie guy and Kiwi girl. They invited us to join them on the remainder of the Quilatoa loop which we were doing anyway. They also promised us large quantities of Argentinean wine they had with them.

     We spent an awesome evening playing Jenga and drinking in a small village hostel of Chugchilan. The following day we all went on a 3hr horse ride to a local cheese factory. Excellent fun where we had no helmets and were allowed to run the animals as fast as we wanted. Not more than a canter but so much fun. Kerry with her runaway horse panicked a few times but most amusing was Brendan the Aussie who bounced about so much his arse chaffed through the skin.

     The next evening we arrived at our hostel to be greeted by a note saying "Gone to Quito for a few days, keys under the ashtray have fun and leave 5 USD per person on the table" Well we took over the whole house in style, bought 12 beers, had 2 bottles of wine and finished the evening playing board games again. We then continued back to Banos with Franco and Nina as we enjoyed our first stay so much with them. Also Franco promised more climbing to James!!! And we just had to go see Popper's puppies. We then spent another week at Pequeno Paraiso feeling very at home, enjoying huge meals 3 times a day where one night Nina would cook and the next Kerry would cook. Most evenings ending watching a DVD or satellite TV. James also got to do his climbing with Franco and they spent one morning taking out the radiator and intercooler from Lodzi as we have a small leak in the radiator from the accident.

     A week later and once again we were sorry to leave such a wonderful couple but we had been in Ecuador for over a month and a half and had still not reached the coast yet. We headed west towards the coast and had just passed Ecuador's highest peak - Chimborazo, when James decided we would backtrack through the mountains to a recommended climbing area. A beautiful drive in dreadful weather and we arrived at the very impressive 500m long cliff beside the road and set up camp in a ditch just off the main road. Bad weather continued through the night and the joint decision by the next morning was to continue towards the coast as the rock was too wet to climb.

     What a change in scenery once again, just showing the diversity of South Americas smallest country, we entered flat swamp land, very muggy and very humid. A full days drive and we finally arrived at the coast not having seen the sea for almost 2.5 months. We continued north up the coast for about 50km before settling ourselves in a hotel car park, 40m from the beach in the tourist town of Montanita. This is Ecuador's premier surf area and has a huge "surfie" feel to all the bars and restaurants. We spent 3 excellent days here and even managed to get a couple of surf sessions in. Improving slowly for any one who has had the unfortunate pleasure of seeing us surf.

     Puerto Lopez was our next destination, very famous for its humpback whale watching. As luck would have it we were right out of season and assured we would not see anything. We were lucky enough to locate a very nice hosteria that was a bit pricey but well worth all the services they provided. We got the bargain price of $5 per night for the full use of the services and then could camp in the car park. What a bonus. We also made our tourist trip out to "Poor mans Galapagos", Isla de la Plata, 40kms off the Pacific coast where the island is likened to the Galapagos. The highlight of the trip is walking among the nesting sea birds, including 3 species of Booby (a type of bird to all you perverts) frigate birds and we were lucky enough to spot a nesting albatross. It was amazing how they actually nest on the tourist path way and you have to walk off the path to get round them. Not afraid of humans at all!! However the highlight of the trip was an hour snorkelling just off the island. The fish were amazing and we were able to get really close to 10kg parrot fish chewing on the coral. Wow what the Galapagos may be like for all those lucky sods that can afford it.

     Continuing north we reached our port of departure, Manta where we settled into a campsite already occupied by a touring French family. Who says it is impossible to travel with kids. Alain and Agnes have been going for 13months and have 4 children, 10, 8, 5 and 3. Yes 4 kids in all. Obviously not impossible but bloody hell hard work by the look of it! They were also looking into shipping to central America so Alain had done a lot of the ground work for us already although we ended up with the same company we were going to go with at the start. Having run around for the best part of a day we agreed we could not really afford to put the vehicle in a container for the 2 day journey- the same price as the shipping from UK to Venezuela and have settled for RORO. Roll on roll off and hope nothing gets nicked and the car arrives the other end.

     As the process was not due to start for another week we decided to continue up the coast for a few days and return when necessary. However we only made it 85kms before settling into a camp spot in Canoa. A beautiful little fishing and tourist village with a beautiful long beach and nice sized waves for learning to surf. The hostel was also very popular with tourists for good reason as it was very tranquil and friendly with both a pool table and table tennis.

     A very relaxing 5 days spent walking along the beach, surfing and playing what ever games we could come into contact with had the days racing by and before long the need to return to Manta to sort out the shipping. Here we have our dilemma. We fly to Panama on the 18/11 which was perfect when we were due to load the Landy on the 16/11. However the ship is 3 days late and only arrives the day we fly out of Ecuador. After spending a full day going through all the paperwork and being charged a kings ransom, we have dropped Lodzi off in the Port parking and hope that she is driven onto the ship on Friday, all intact. Hopefully the next update will be good news from Panama.

     After a gruelling 10 hour bus journey from the coast back to Quito we hopefully fly out to Panama tomorrow morning to pick up the Landy on Monday- Mmmm

     So we are finally leaving South America. Original plans saw us having finished Central and North America as well by now, but we both agree absolutely no regrets though and would be happy if the rest of the trip is half as enjoyable as we have had so far. South America is an amazing continent made up of so many different cultures and landscapes one can never get bored. All those out there just dreaming of doing it. No time like the present!

     Ciao from, and to ………SOUTH AMERICA